Dave Graham
David Ethan Graham (born 1981 in
Maine) is a professional
rock climber. Introduced to the sport via gym climbing in
1997, he was sending
5.14a within a year. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham is known for his stance against grade-inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic.
*Dave Graham is 180 cm and about 65 kg.
*On 2000-04-01, Graham had the
first ascent (FA) of
The Fly (5.14d/9a or 8B+) in Rumney, New Hampshire. Rumney is where Graham initially trained and established himself as an elite rock climber with Luke Parady and Joe Kinder. The three youths were instrumental in each others development as climbers. Graham also established some of the other hard testpieces at Rumney, such as
China Beach (5.14b),
Jaws (5.14c), and
Livin' Astro (5.14c) at the Waimea crag.
*On 2001 May 21, Graham repeated the route
Action Directe in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Action Directe (FA by
Wolfgang Güllich in September 1991) was the world's first 9a, and considered the benchmark for the grade.
*On 2002-01-30, Graham repeated
Dreamtime (FA by
Fred Nicole) in Cresciano, Switzerland. It had been considered the benchmark
V15/8C.
*On 2002 July 12, Graham had the FA of the sport route
Ba, ba black sheep (8c+) in Céüse, France.
*On 2003 Apr 26, Graham repeated
New Base Line (FA by
Bernd Zangerl on 2002 Dec 12) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
*On 2005 January 9, Graham made the first ascent of
The Story of 2 Worlds (8C/V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland by adding a sit-start to the 2003 boulder problem
The Dagger (8B+/V14) by
Toni Lamprecht. The second ascent of
The Dagger part 1 was by Graham in December 2004 (041219). Later on 050301, Lamprecht also added a different sit-start to
The Dagger. Lamprecht's sit-start begins on the right of the boulder while Graham's sit-start begins on the left. Lamprecht feels that Graham's
Story is harder than his new
The Dagger SD. Upon completion of
Story, Graham proclaimed it may be the new standard for 8C/V15. (See
Dreamtime.
The Dagger is actually on the backside of the same boulder that holds
Dreamtime.) Graham believed that bouldering was suffering from grade inflation. Subsequently, on his 8a.nu scorecard, he downgraded many of the boulders which he had climbed. He further explained that these are "[his] grades, not the real grades, not the world grades," stressing the subjective and relative nature of grading.
*Then, on 2005 Mar 07, Graham made the first ascent of
From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland, another possible 8C/V15. After completing this problem, he stated that he is as confused as ever about grading, despite his earlier proclamations.
*On 2005 April 13, Graham repeated
Bain de Sang (9a in St Loup, Switzerland, FA by
Fred Nicole in 1993).
Bain de Sang was the world's second 9a and is the most repeated one. The route took Graham only three tries so he asks whether it may actually be 8c+.
*For six years, Dave Graham lived the expatriate life and climbed in Europe, putting up many hard boulders, such as
Kings of Sonlerto (8B+ in Ticino, Switzerland, FA on 2005 Nov 11). And on 051108, this also led to the first ascent of
Coup de Grace in Ticino. He proposed a grade of 9a+/5.15a for this sport route (see
Realization).
*On 051207, Graham repeated
The Mandala sit-start (aka Mandalion, 8B+ FA by
Toni Lamiche) in Bishop, CA.
*In the winter of 2006, Graham visited the bouldering mecca of the
Hueco Tanks, TX and proceeded to repeat many of its hard problems as well as establishing many new lines. On 2006 Jan 20, Graham repeated
Esperanza (8B+/V14, FA by
Fred Nicole). On 2006 Feb 1, he repeated
Terre de Sienne (8B+/V14, FA by
Fred Nicole). Next, he repeated
Techo de los tres B (8B+/V14, FA by
Fred Nicole) on 2006 Feb 06. He also fell at the top of the problem on his flash attempt of
Slashface (FA by
Fred Nicole) which Graham graded as 8B/V13, and subsequently did it on his second try on 2006 Feb 11.
*
The Story of 2 Worlds
