Kaiseki
Kaiseki (懐石) was a light meal served at a
Japanese tea ceremony but is now also used for a style of light meal, a
tasting menu, served in a Japanese restaurant. Kaiseki is popularly served in a
ryotei (料亭) and a
kappou (割烹) restaurant.
Kaiseki (懐石) originally meant
Onjaku, a rock or a
konnyaku heated by an open fire that was wrapped by clothes to warm oneself. Two theories exist as to how kaiseki became associated with food. One theory claims that a poor
Zen Buddhist monk who had nothing edible to offer to a guest offered his onjaku to the guest, to at least give him warmth. Another theory claims that it is taken from a teaching of
被褐懐玉 in
Tao Te Ching by
Lao Zi and substituted
玉 with
石.
In the present day, there is less emphasis on the meaning of Kaiseki as a meal to welcome the guest and more emphasis on a meal to make a tea ceremony an enjoyable one. It may also be used for a course meal and the former might be called
Cha Kaiseki (茶懐石), literally tea kaiseki. Kaiseki may also be used to describe a light meal in general and thus a
European style kaiseki exists where there are only a few, if any, differences between that and a course dinner.
The order of dishes served may differ when kaiseki is served at a tea ceremony and other occasions. A bowl of rice and miso soup often served at the start of a kaiseki course meal may be skipped in other occasions. Dishes may be served individually to offer a more relaxed atmosphere instead of taking a portion according to explicit practices associated with a tea ceremony.
Dishes
Kaiseki cuisine was once strictly vegetarian due to its Zen origin, but nowadays fish and occasionally meat will feature.
Sake may be served if there is no tea ceremony scheduled.
In kaiseki, only fresh seasonal ingredients are used, prepared in ways that aim to enhance their flavour. Exquisite care is taken in selecting ingredients and types of food, and finished dishes are carefully presented on serving ware that is chosen to enhance the appearance and seasonal theme of the meal. Dishes are beatifully arranged and garnished, often with real leaves and flowers, as well as edible garnishes designed to resemble natural plants and animals. The serving ware and garnishes are as much a part of the kaiseki experience as the food; some might argue that the aesthetic experience of seeing the food is more important than the physical experience of eating it, though of course both aspects are important.
Wares
As noted above, wares of Kaiseki have as much, and some say more, than the actual food served. Any beautiful and seasonably fitting ware of
Japanese pottery or
porcelain, urushi
lacquered wares, or glass may be used. Sometimes, freshly cut bamboo may be used. According to the prevailing custom, rice and soup are served in lacquered ware. These wares may be appreciated during and after eating. Serving an ill-suited ware is an embarrassing occasion.
In
Kyoto, there are several famous Kaiseki places. Daitokuji Ikkyu (大徳寺一久) at Daitokujimonmae (大徳寺門前), Kakizen (柿善), Tsujitome (辻留), Kiccho (吉兆) at Kyoto Sanjo, and Shofukuro (招福楼) are some of the famous places. These places have tea rooms for tea ceremonies.
*
Japanese tea ceremony
