South Tyrol
South Tyrol (
German and
Ladin:
Südtirol,
Italian:
Alto Adige; official in German:
Autonome Provinz Bozen - Südtirol, official in Italian:
Provincia Autonoma di Bolzano - Alto Adige, official in Ladin:
Provinzia Autonòma de Balsan - Südtirol) is an autonomous
province of
Italy that belongs to the
region of
Trentino-South Tyrol, of which it is a subdivision. South Tyrol's extensive autonomy makes it
de facto comparable to an autonomous region of Italy. The province itself is divided into 116 municipalities called
communes[Italian institute of statistics Istat]. The capital of the province is
Bozen-Bolzano. It has an area of 7 400 km², and a total population of 476,023 (
2004). South Tyrol is known for its
mountains, which compose a portion of the Italian Alps and the main
Alps chain located in
Europe.
The province was part of the
Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of
World War I, when it was annexed by Italy, along with the Italian-speaking province of
Trento to the south. After
World War II, the German-speaking majority requested reunification with
Austria, but the idea was rejected by the
Allied Powers in
1945 and in
1946. Following the rejection, Austria and Italy agreed on
autonomy for South Tyrol and now the province enjoys a degree of self rule from the
Italian Government and lively relations with Austria. Since 2005 and in the wake of the break-up of both
Yugoslavia and
Czechoslovakia, a revitalized
populist Union for South Tyrol (
Union für Südtirol) party has led the growing call for South Tyrol's right of self-determination and secession from
Italy, with an eventual reunion with the rest of
Tyrol.
See main article: History of South Tyrol.From the 6th to the 9th century, the region was settled by the
Bavarii together with the
Langobards and the romanised natives. As part of the
Frankish empire and later the
Holy Roman Empire the region had a strategic importance as a bridgehead to Italy as southern part of the duchy of
Bavaria. Large parts of the province were donated to the Bishops of
Trento and
Brixen-Bressanone. After their caretakers, the earls of
Tyrol (See
Meinhard II of Gorizia-Tyrol) had gathered the province under their command, the region together with the valleys to the north was known as Tyrol.In
1342, the earldom went over to the Bavarian dukes again when Emperor
Louis IV voided the first marriage of Countess
Margarete Maultasch. But already in
1363 the
Wittelsbach released the country for
Habsburg. They ruled the region almost continuously until
1918.
World War I
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Detailed map of South Tyrol |
From
1882, Italy was part of the
Triple Alliance (German:
Dreibund), a defensive pact signed with Germany and Austria-Hungary. When Austria-Hungary, in
1914, declared war against Serbia, thus starting
World War I, Italy remained neutral. Austria-Hungary, fearing Italian intervention in the war against it, offered some territorial compensations in exchange for Italian neutrality for the whole war. On the other side, the
Triple Entente signed with Italy the
London Pact, which promised territorial gains at Austria-Hungary's expense, including South Tyrol, in exchange for Italian intervention in the war.
The frontline followed mostly the Austria-Italian border, which ran right through the highest mountains of the Alps. The ensuing front became known as the "War in ice and snow", as troops occupied the highest mountains and glaciers all year long. Twelve metres (40 feet) of snow were a usual occurrence during the winter of
1915-
16 and tens of thousands of soldiers disappeared in
avalanches. The remains of these soldiers are still being uncovered today. The Italian
Alpinis, as well as their Austrian counterparts (
Kaiserjäger,
Standschützen and
Landesschützen) occupied every hill and mountain top and began to carve whole cities out of the rocks and even drilled tunnels and living quarters deep into the ice of glaciers like the
Marmolada. Guns were dragged by hundreds of troops on Mountains up to 3 890 m (12,760 feet) high. Streets, cable cars, mountain railways and walkways through the steepest of walls were built.
But whoever had occupied the higher ground first was almost impossible to dislodge, so both sides turned to drilling tunnels under mountain peaks, filling them up with explosives and then detonating the whole mountain to pieces, including its defenders: Col di Lana, Monte Pasubio, Lagazuoi, etc.Climbing and skiing became essential skills for the troops of both sides and soon Ski Battalions and Special Climbing units were formed.
In
1918, after the Austrian defeat at the
Battle of Vittorio Veneto, Italian troops ended the war with Austria-Hungary by penetrating deep into South Tyrol. With the dissolution of Austria-Hungary, the Italian-speaking province of Trentino was attached to Italy. However, Italy also annexed the Southern part of the province of Tyrol, which was inhabited by ethnic Germans and
Ladins (today Ladin is the third official language of South Tyrol, alongside German and Italian). The territorial arrangements were confirmed by the
Treaty of Saint-Germain (1919).
Fascist rule and World War II
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German map of the Tyrol detailing the division between north and east (Austria) and south (Italy) |
After the rise of
Fascism in
1922 a policy of
Italianisation was implemented. All places, down to the tiniest hamlet, were given Italian names, and even family names were translated or invented. The process intensified in the
1930s, when the government of
Benito Mussolini encouraged thousands of southern Italians to relocate to the region. The proportion of the Italian-speaking population thus grew significantly from 3% before World War I (census of
1910) to over 34% in
1961.
Hitler did not claim the German-speaking South Tyrol for his "Reich", because
Mussolini was too important as an ally. In
1939, both dictators agreed to give the German-speaking population a choice: they could emigrate to Germany (or its new territories) or stay in Italy and accept their complete Italianisation. It was a difficult choice for the people of South Tyrol: between their language or the landscape where their ancestors had lived. Both solutions meant the breakdown of their culture. As a consequence, South Tyrolean society was deeply riven. Those who wanted to stay ("Dableiber"), were condemned as traitors, those who left ("Optanten") were defamed as Nazis. Because of the outbreak of World War II, this agreement between Mussolini and Hitler was never fully accomplished.
In
1943, Mussolini was deposed and Italy surrendered to the Allies, who had invaded southern Italy via
Sicily. German troops promptly invaded northern Italy and South Tyrol became part of the "Operationszone Alpenvorland", annexed to the Greater German Reich. Many German-speaking South Tyroleans wanted revenge upon Italians living in the area but were mostly prevented by the occupying Nazis, who still considered Mussolini head of the "
Repubblica di Salò" and wanted to preserve good relations with the Fascists.
The region largely escaped fighting during the war, and its mountainous remoteness proved useful to the Nazis as a refuge for items looted from across
Europe. When the
U.S. 88th Infantry Division occupied South Tyrol in May
1945, it found vast amounts of precious items and looted treasures. Among the items reportedly found were railway wagons filled with gold bars, hundreds of thousands of metres of silk, the Italian crown jewels, King Victor Emmanuel's personal collection of rare coins, and scores of works of art looted from art galleries such as the
Uffizi in
Florence. It was feared that the Germans might use the region as a last-ditch stronghold to fight to the bitter end, but this possibility was rendered moot by the suicide of Hitler and the rapid Nazi surrender thereafter. (
The Times, London, 25 May 1945)
In 1945 the South Tyrolean People's Party (
Südtiroler Volkspartei) was founded, above all by
Dableiber – people who had chosen to stay in Italy after the agreement between Hitler and Mussolini. A party founded by the
Optanten would not have been acceptable for the occupying Americans, owing to their apparently close relationship to the Nazis. The support of the
Dableiber also proved useful as a means of deflecting renewed Austrian claims for the return of South Tyrol.
After World War II
With the
Treaty of Gruber-De Gasperi (1946) the German-speaking people were granted special rights. But the statutory order was implemented by De Gasperi for the whole region (South Tyrol and Trentino), where Italians were in the majority, making real self-government for the German-speaking South Tyroleans impossible. Even the implementation of this "First statutory order" was delayed repeatedly, while more and more Italians were encouraged to relocate to South Tyrol, with the aim of creating an Italian majority.
As a consequence of delaying implementation of the statutory order, the late
1950s and especially
1960s saw the rise of an anti-Italian
insurgency in South Tyrol. At the beginning the insurgents' strategy was targeted only against structures.
The 1960s brought some progress towards the establishment of self-government for the South Tyroleans. In consequence, only the most fanatical of the insurgents wanted to continue their fight for an Austrian South Tyrol by violent means. Insurgents carried out 361 attacks with explosives, guns and landmines between
1956 and
1988. Acts were mainly against structures; however, there were 21 deaths as a result of the attacks, four of which were insurgents, slain by their own explosive devices. The wounded amounted to 57.
Eventually, the pressure of insurgency caused the Italian central government to consider a "Second statutory order", primarily for South Tyrol.
Today
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Banner of South Tyrol, emblazoned with the name of the province in all three official languages |
Today, South Tyrol enjoys a high degree of autonomy, and relations with
North and East Tyrol – the two portions of the old state retained by
Austria – are lively, especially since
Austria joined the
European Union. The
South Tyrolean People's Party, or
Südtiroler Volkspartei, has been consistently in power since its founding in 1945.
However, South Tyrolean society is still to some extent segmented across ethnic lines: each resident must declare his or her language group (Italian:
gruppo linguistico; German:
Sprachgruppe; Ladin:
grup linguistich) at the census (choosing amongst Italian, German or Ladin). According to the
2001 census more than two-thirds of the population is German-speaking (68%); the second most used language is Italian (28%), followed by
Ladin (4%). Places today have two (German and Italian) or even three (German, Italian and Ladin) names. German is the majority language of 103 of 116 municipalities, with the remaining 13 divided between Ladin (8) and Italian (5). However, the two largest cities,
Bozen-Bolzano and
Meran-Merano, both now have sizeable Italian-speaking populations (73% and 48% respectively).
Public jobs are assigned by ethnic quotas, and require proficiency in both Italian and German, with the effect of protecting the local labour market from immigration. Notwithstanding this imperfect cohabitation, since the
1980s there has been an increased call, especially amongst the youth, for superseding ethnic divisions. One famous advocate of this novel movement was
Alexander Langer (
1946â€"
1995),
MEP for the
Greens group.
Furthermore, the increased permeability of European borders (e.g., with Austria) following the
Schengen Treaty has further undermined the rationale of ethnic separation and of the special autonomy of the region. As a result, the future of the ethnic policies that served the region during the past 40 years is not clear.
During the closing months of World War II, South Tyrol was involved in negotiations with the Austrian provisional government to come up with a plan to hand the land back over to
Austria. However, the Allied Powers did not allow this plan to continue in a decision made in the
fall of
1945. While a
referendum and protests were held inside South Tyrol and in Austria to support the merger with Austria, the plan was finally defeated the following year. This opened the door for the Italian and Austrian governments to allow autonomy for the province. Owing to the
Paris Agreement between Italy and Austria, South Tyrol was promised legislative and executive power by the Italian government. The details of these powers were laid out in the
Autonomous Statute, an agreement that was passed by the Italian
Constituent Assembly on
31 January 1948.
The province is divided into eight districts, with one of them being the capital city of Bozen-Bolzano. The other seven districts encompass a portion of the various communes and the people who are located in those communes. Each district is headed by a president and two bodies called the district committee and the district council. The districts are responsible for intercommunal disputes, roads, schools and social services such as retirement homes.
[South Tyrol Municipal and District Government]Out of the 481,000 residents of the province, 219,000 of them are employed (
1999). Most of these employees are working in the fields of
agriculture, handicrafts,
industry, commerce,
tourism, self-employed professionals and the service industry. The unemployment level in
1999 was roughly 3
%, which is lower than the national
Italian average of 8.6%, or the
Austrian average of 6%. The handicraft industry is dominated by
cabinet making,
construction,
painting,
plumbing, meat preparation, and
baking. South Tyrol also acts as a bridge between the northern European and Italian markets, and hotel stays in the province count for 8 percent of the money Italy earns from hotels and other lodging.
[Euro Info Center - South Tyrol (1999)]South Tyrol is located at the northernmost point in Italy. The province is bordered by
Austria to the east and north and by
Switzerland to the west. Italian provinces that border South Tyrol are
Belluno to the southeast,
Trentino to the south and by
Sondrio to the southwest. The landscape itself is mostly cultivated with different types of
shrubs and
forests.
[Landscapes of South Tyrol]Mountains
Mountains dot many parts of the of South Tyrol landscape. Many of these mountains belong to the
Alps, which extend through many
Central European nations. In this mountain chain, there is a smaller group called the
Ortler Alps. In this group, which is considered the centre of the Italian Alps, there is a mountain called the
Ortler, which rises 3 905
m above
sea level, and is the highest peak in the Ortler Alps. Another group of mountains located in South Tyrol are the
Dolomites. The Dolomites are a section of the main alpine chain, of which equal parts are located in the South Tyrol and in neighbouring Italian provinces. One mountain, the
Schlern (2 563 m), is part of the Dolomite chain. Other mountains located in South Tyrol are:
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Rosengarten (
Catinaccio)
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Latemar*
Drei Zinnen (
Tre Cime di Lavaredo)
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ZainggerbergArtists:
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Gilbert & George Visual artists
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Giorgio Moroder Composer
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Luis Trenker Film director
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Walther von der Vogelweide Minstrel
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Oswald von Wolkenstein Composer
Inventors and scientists:
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Jakob Philipp Fallmerayer Historical investigator
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Max Valier Rocketry pioneer
Political activists:
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Lilli Gruber Politician
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Andreas Hofer Freedom fighter
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Sepp Kerschbaumer Political activist
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Alexander Langer Politician
Religious leaders:
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Arbeo of Freising Bishop
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Joseph Freinademetz Missionary & saint
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Jakob Hutter Founder of the
HutteritesSports people:
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Armando Aste Mountaineer
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Klaus Dibiasi Diver
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Hans Kammerlander Mountaineer & skier
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Reinhold Messner Mountaineer
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Gustav Thöni Alpine skier
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Armin Zöggeler Luger
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Hannes Rohregger The only South Tyroli who was offered a place to represent Italy in the World Cup
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Gerda Weissensteiner BobbistOther:
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Ötzi the Iceman Mummy
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Valleys of South Tyrol*
Communes of South Tyrol*
Castles of South Tyrol*
Südtirol - the official tourism website*
Information about South Tyrol*
Civic network of South Tyrol - Official site of the Autonomous Province of Bozen - South Tyrol
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Details of the autonomy statute South Tyrol