St Mary de Castro (Dover)
Church at
Dover Castle.
Saxon
600
As it stands today it is a much restored example of a Saxon church dating from around 1000 AD. It is surrounded by a which suggests that this church replaces an earlier building. It has the earliest door arch of any church in England.
A Saxon church was probably built here circa 600, perhaps replacing a Roman shrine to
Minerva and
Mars, and more probably within a
Saxon burgh. It was sited there to use the Pharos as its
bell tower and as a source of
spolia (Roman tiles are still to be seen in its fabric).
1000
The 600 church's existence is suggested by the large late Saxon cemetery around its successor, probably built it in c.1000. This still stands and is
cruciform in plan, with an aisleless nave broader than the chancel and transepts, and a central tower (the same width as the nave). It stands on a projecting plinth of plain square section constructed mainly with large stone blocks, but its walls are of filnt and tile and its window arches of tile, all mined from the earlier church and the Pharos.
Medieval rebuilds
Probably at the end of the twelfth century an
Early English vault was added to the existing chancel and an altar recess was made at the south east corner of the nave. As part of his building works at the castle, in 1226
Henry III of England instructed the church be repairedand in 1247 ordered three altars to be built and dedicated to
St. Edmund,
St. Adrian and
St. Edward and images of these saints and of St. John the Evangelist to be made. In 1252 three bells were cast at
Canterbury to be hung in the tower. As ever, the Pharos was used as a bell tower and was connected to the church via a new short passage.
At some time between 1324 and 1334 the church was repainted by a painter named John of Maidstone. Two new bells were cast in 1345 at a cost of £15 18s. 5¼d. These weighed 4266 lb. and 1078 lb. In 1494 Sir Edward Poynings, probably acting as deputy to the then Constable, Prince Henry, spent over £36 on the church and keep, although how much of that the church received is unknown.
Neglect
Between 1555 and 1557 the church was secured as it was about to collapse through want of repair. In 1576 it was recommended that the chancel be repaired in stone, the windows glazed and seats be provided so that men could hear the service. In 1582 fourteen small chairs were finally purchased.
In 1690 public worship in the church ceased although soldiers continued to be buried in the church yard for a time. In 1780 it was converted into a cooperage and storehouse but in 1801 it collapsed, and by 1808 it had become a coal store.
Victorian rebuild
After many years of use as a coal store the church was first restored by
George Gilbert Scott between 1860 and 1862, and later by
William Butterfield in 1888. This later restoration was less sympathetic than Scott's and involved the completion of the tower, the mosaic work in the nave and the building of a vestry.
Today
Today Saint Mary in Castro is still a thriving church serving the Army and local people, and is the Dover Garrison Church.
The 28 feet high crossing arches appear to be original, and have strip work of projecting tiles outlining the arches on their western faces. The north and south walls of the nave are pierced by unusual double splayed round headed windows. A pair of double splayed flat headed windows near the west end of the side walls of the nave are suggested by Scott to indicate that space was needed for a west gallery. Whilst restoring the church Scott found further evidence of this gallery in the form of holes in the walls for the insertion of supporting timbers. Access to the nave from the south was by way of a tall round headed doorway with through stone facing of alternate upright and flat slabs. This doorway is now blocked and little of its original outlining stripwork remains.
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Dover Museum article on St Mary de Castro
